Product reviews

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Creepingdeath on October 24, 2008 at 9:19pm

You're shooting fingers? If so then WAY TO GO!

I LOVE shooting fingers :-)

I assume split finger then (one top, two bottom) or maybe with 65% letoff (or more) just 2 under?
If you're anchoring anywhere but under the jaw line that'll look high (to my view) and give the appearance of a too high anchor.

Screw it man, you can't argue with success!

I just mentioned it because my bud anchors high with a release, shoots well too, but has his sight low and he wondered why my sight is a bit high compared to his (had to 'splain it to him). He's used that anchor point for ever, he's not changing, and there's no reason too.

I anchor under my jawline, and on short riser bows have my top pin VERY close to where the riser comes back out in thickness (when viewed from behind). I find having the riser within my pinguard on such bows to be a major dislike. That happened years ago on my Mathews FX. Nice bow for the $ though.

If you're shooting fingers, are you using a tab or glove, what kind? I prefer tabs, esp the Kantpinch KP300 calfhair. Have used the Wilsons, but that corfam pops me in the face sometimes.



ARTIST THE REV said:

i think its just the pic ...im using a whisker biscuit...i dont use a release aid ..everything is square..it must be the pic ...if you want , i could give you a side view of an arrow knocked and you can tell me what you think ? it would only take a minute or two to take the pic ? if something is off , by all means let me know ...

Creepingdeath said:

ATR,

Looking at your bow, the sight gives me the idea that you anchor a bit high.

Nothing wrong with that, on some short riser bows it might be needed ('cause top pin gets close to riser flare).

Just wondering.

▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by ARTIST THE REV on October 25, 2008 at 12:18am

neither tab nor glove , just fingers (like the feel of the string ).. old fashioned like that ...built calluses ...shoot 10 arrows a day with my kids in the off season ...
, i anchor with the nail of my thumb in the corner of my mouth for consistency in the beginning(shot an old fiberglass long bow as a kid) , now out of habit . i would guess about 1 1/2" higher than you do .
yes split finger 1top 2 bottom ..
i dont care for release aids .. my buddies love em , just not my style .. im tactile .. want to feel it , want to know my shot is on by the way the string feels in my fingers .. hard to explain .
my uncle says im just hard headed ...lololol..,. tried to get me to use a tab ...lololol..

Creepingdeath said:

You're shooting fingers? If so then WAY TO GO!

I LOVE shooting fingers :-)

I assume split finger then (one top, two bottom) or maybe with 65% letoff (or more) just 2 under?
If you're anchoring anywhere but under the jaw line that'll look high (to my view) and give the appearance of a too high anchor.

Screw it man, you can't argue with success!

I just mentioned it because my bud anchors high with a release, shoots well too, but has his sight low and he wondered why my sight is a bit high compared to his (had to 'splain it to him). He's used that anchor point for ever, he's not changing, and there's no reason too.

I anchor under my jawline, and on short riser bows have my top pin VERY close to where the riser comes back out in thickness (when viewed from behind). I find having the riser within my pinguard on such bows to be a major dislike. That happened years ago on my Mathews FX. Nice bow for the $ though.

If you're shooting fingers, are you using a tab or glove, what kind? I prefer tabs, esp the Kantpinch KP300 calfhair. Have used the Wilsons, but that corfam pops me in the face sometimes.



ARTIST THE REV said:

i think its just the pic ...im using a whisker biscuit...i dont use a release aid ..everything is square..it must be the pic ...if you want , i could give you a side view of an arrow knocked and you can tell me what you think ? it would only take a minute or two to take the pic ? if something is off , by all means let me know ...

Creepingdeath said:

ATR,

Looking at your bow, the sight gives me the idea that you anchor a bit high.

Nothing wrong with that, on some short riser bows it might be needed ('cause top pin gets close to riser flare).

Just wondering.

▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by Creepingdeath on October 28, 2008 at 10:15pm

I did shoot the old Model 60 Smith today. It had some flash (2" barrel) and was rather loud for a .38 special, but recoil with warm loads was puddly. I attribute that to low recoil (compared to most calibers I shoot, fairly large and thin hands (good wrap with no real tissue movement under recoil), the Pachmayr grips (compact) and of course, the little J frame.

Blasting the center zone of a silhouette target at 20 ft indoors was easy, all in double action.

I have not however decided on a defensive load, and have not seen how well I can shoot it at longer distance (like 25 yards).

I expect it to be quite serviceable, even at that range, as my eyes are still good ;-)

So, neat old gun that will do all that is asked of it, and look cool too (you guys ought to check the M36 custom shop blued barrel, case hardened frame J frame....it's so classic and cool!)

Will say that the exposed hammer does tend to snag in a coat pocket, rides perfectly concealed though (no blueprinting). I'll probably get a spare part hammer and cut it down to make it either mostly bobbed or full bob.

My camera is in the Jeep (fannypack) so i haven't snapped a pic of it yet. Maybe tomorrow.

BTW, my Stag Arms upper arrived, so now I gotta start building that. While I can. I bet Obama will use the full auto show accident with that 8 yr old kid as some springboard.

▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by Creepingdeath on November 10, 2008 at 9:37am

New items for review:

Irish Setter brand waterproof leather/rubber boots (800gram thinsulate).

List price $160, Dunhams reg price $109, sale yesterday for $89.
Chinese made :-(
1 yr warranty on waterproofing if using silicone only as treatment.

Cold wet sleeting weather. Boots ran a little small on size. Reg foot size 10.5, got full size larger (11.5). With medium thick wool sock, foot slides a little, not enough for any problem, walked over a mile with no issues, heel stayed on. Double sock it'll be perfect (one thin moisture wicking type with an insulator outside).

Tread pattern OK, muddy field, then climbing metal ladder stands, no problem.

Was warm on stand too, and I get cold easy, especially feet and hands.

Multipanel construction, with what appears decent stitching, should be "less likely" to rip apart.

So far for this area's temps, I consider them a good buy. Will post results as they get broken in.



Other item:

Bushnell Banner 1.5-4.5X scope.
Made in China :-( (Leupold 2-7X will replace it...........new or used-depends on what Ebay has, I scored a nice 3-9X AO compact there for a nice price last year)

Scope appears OK in finish, power ring moves easy but has enough resistance to stay put. Focus is OK with quick focus feature.

Image is flat, relatively, there is a little halo on way outter edge.

Adjustments were a little wacky. Horizontal, the clicks were very close to 1/4" as stated. Vertical was 1/2" or more per click. And there was some error in the bias spring. It over ran huge when i first got it, but has since settled down to around 1/2" or a little more, per click in vertical.

It is usable, but is not as good as the one I had 4 years ago.

If you set it and forget it, then it might be a decent scope.

Recoil on the .44 mag rifle it sits on isn't much, and my previous scope like it was on a 12 gauge, so maybe there was enough recoil to make the erector tube rest on the adjustment posts within, corrected itself if there was any spring problem inside.

Power adjustment ring and rear eyebell are rather large. On a Ruger 77/44 it makes bolt operation a little funky, the bolt will clear, but it's very close, you'll have to open your hand and sweep from under the bolt to make it work smooth.

On my Marlin it clears the hammer, but placing it forward I had to remove some of the Weaver base's material at the back. I did this on Aimtech 870/1100 clamshell scopemounts too.
On those just grind the rear of the base at a 45 degree angle, from top of flat to widest flare at the back. That should work, if not take it to the next spot down (where base necks back in).

I am amazed at scope base manufacturers..........for not doing this kind of stuff.

But then, most folks are silly, go to higher rings to avoid the problem and then have poor fitting gun/scope combos and miss or wound game.

I make my stuff fit like a glove, and when stuff comes in fast I don't have to think, I just pull it up, both eyes open and get my aiming point or lead and drop them.

That is also why I like the low 1.5X power of the cheap scope. Up close and fast I have used these scopes to nuke some deer going full blast, even in timber.

A 4X scope there, even a good one, like the old and discontinued Leupold 4X compact (has wider field of view and better eye relief than newer style) makes it a bit tougher to pull off.
Did it, repeatedly.............but that 1 or 1.5X stuff makes it EASY!

If you go with a Bushnell Banner you might be well served, maybe not. I've had 3 and this one is the worst one yet (others were very good), and this one is more than serviceable, so far.

So.......I have reserved recommendations at this part- due to the vertical adjustment issue and lack of testing in the field (rain, cold, bonking around).

▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by Ricky Stephens on March 29, 2009 at 6:18pm

I am writing this product review on the Stedi-Stock www.harold@stedistock.com This is truly a great product. It is used to steady your camera, Video Camera and Spoting Scope. I use this when filming deer and turkey hunts. Great product for the outdoorsman. Contact Harold Hurst for more info.

Attachments:

• STEDI-STOCK 3.JPG, 40 KB

▶ Reply to This

• ‹ Previous
• 1
• 2
• 3
• Next ›
• Page